The Buffalo Race (Kambala) Detective

Feb 24, 2009


Like most in the twin districts, I too had heard about Kambala quite early in my childhood. But had never witnessed one, as Idea of losing precious night-sleep, just for knowing which among those dark and not so lovable animals would run fastest, never amused me. However, strange behaviour of some of my fellow villagers while talking about Kambala started nagging me. I was baffled with the overt excitement in their voices while talking about it. Often I saw sparkle in their eyes and also a strange undertone of joy and pride in their voices. This made me believe that Kambala had some special virtue that I had failed to figure out and I felt the need to know it. Hence, when my friends organised a visit to Aikala Kambala as part of a family get together, I joined them. I am glad, I did.


I was too keen to know the secret that made Kambala an exciting event. Hence, I rushed to the racing arena leaving my friends behind. The place was bustling with activity with air of festivity all around. People were present in hundreds. But the Buffalo presence was overwhelming. Almost every square inch of land had either a buffalo or its dung on it. I found no early clue for the secret that I was pursuing and pushed myself near to the racing fields.





I chose a strategic location to watch. It was on one end of the slush filled long narrow twin racing fields, just beyond the finishing line.  Once settled, I started observing every development carefully, to get the answer. I squinted towards the far end, where all the action was. There were two pairs of buffalo's, each accompanied by a dozen of Homo sapiens. The men were struggling hard to make the beasts stand at the starting line but to their utter dismay the buffalos were not cooperating; moving abruptly every time they came close. The buffalos looked like unwilling groom of Hindi cinema, where as the assistants looked, dowry hungry parents. As this activity got stretched I opted to wander around.


Men attired in traditional Mundu or Lungi were all around. Women, like the lizards of the deserts, had chosen sneaky places to sit and hide ( I wasn't sure from whom they were hiding, men or buffalos). It was a pleasant experience to see people of all categories, age and economy group together in the same place and similar dresses as all looked part of an extended family. It looked as if everyone from the village was present there, be it the poor daily wage labourers, the octogenarians who had stopped frequenting the markets, youth, naughty kids, or a man who had left for Mumbai a decade ago. It was then that I noticed first breakthrough for the day. At the Kambala, amazingly, every one looked equal. The poor-rich divide, which was so obvious on the streets, was absent or at least heavily diminished. There was a feeling of oneness. Every one appeared a human being, just a human being. Whether, this aura of unity had something to do with the Kambala Mystery? I wondered.

 







 

The fields around were vast and of impressive size.   Mother Nature had manifested herself in an extremely lavish manner there. A stream of water flowing as a Nala snaked across like a garland, proving to be the lifeline for the adjacent greenery. Trees surrounded the arena from all sides as if to form a green colosseum for our buffalo - gladiators.  The tall barren mountains in the back yard were dark and prohibitive to look like the places reserved for the Gods and sages to sit and watch the Kambala. These lush surroundings looked apt stage for holding the  age-old tradition. The comfort that was seeping into me gave  second enlightenment for the day.  I realised that serenity of the place coupled with the freedom that  it offered from the day to day rat race, were some priceless virtues that made Kambala so special to people. 

Then I noticed the guy on the mike, it took me very little time to know that his role assumes as much importance as that of the buffalo. Uttering dialogues which were both amusing as well as commanding, he kept the mood upbeat with vivid and imaginative commentary and also with some timely gems which he chose to deliver at regular intervals.  He was quick to spite anyone who would displease him be it a camera flashing journalists, slow moving competitor or even the disorderly spectator. I noticed that even while shouting at people he maintained the charm and regal touch in his language and dialogue delivery. You violate any rule and he'll make you feel as worthless as a three legged buffalo in a race. He played a key role by keeping the mood elevated, all the time. 

Moving in the outer yard I saw the team preparations. The team associates were busy in preparatory activities like feeding, washing, nursing and pampering the buffalos. They did it all with great dedication as if they were priests for those four legged Gods. Some of them were drunk but all were thoroughly enjoying what they were doing. The Jockeys, who run the buffalo, had standout personality. With distinctly athletic features their physique commanded instant attention from every onlooker.  Their naturally groomed frame looked the best prototypes for ideal and healthy human physique.  I would warn the Salmans and Shahruks of the world not to visit Kambala unless they are prepared for a terrible streak of inferiority complex seeing their six packs. 

Kambala is also a food fest with Tulunadu cuisine as its theme.

All Illustrious South-Canara delicacies line up together like Ramba, Menaka, Urvashi in heaven. Be it the crunchy Charmuri or sensual Neerdosa, yummy Pulimunchi or the divine Kori Sukka, everything adds up to be an irresistible temptation. Not to forget the famous Kori Rotti, the best seller. Biting the crispy Charmuri in my mouth, I felt like shouting “Eureka”. The amazing feeling of satisfaction on the faces people who were munching, crunching, licking and biting those delicacies, made me feel I was quite close to solving the Kambala jigsaw puzzle and started visualising myself triumphant.

 A sudden and progressively intensifying noise made by the crowd woke me out of my trance.  I rushed towards the finishing line and saw an amazing scene. The unruly grooms, I mean beasts, had finally obliged and the race had begun. The buffalos were let loose and were coming running at an awesome speed, with a wave of slush being created in the fields.

It was a pleasure to watch the buffalos running. The dark and huge beasts were both fierce and majestic in their sprint, giving their best, extracting every ounce of energy. The muscular men behind them ran like Olympic sprinters. Their coordinated effort looked a wonderful scene to watch.  Within moments, the brigade had reached the finishing line. The noise made by the crowd reached the pinnacle, the man saying commentary was on top of his voice. The slush was getting thrown to meters height and the human faces around were full of smile and excitement. Then I noticed the most remarkable thing to happen for the day, surprisingly, I too was happy, on seeing one pair of buffalo crossing the finishing line ahead of the other! 

In the end, my detective  mission was accomplished. The events made me realise the reasons that made buffalo race so important to people of my village and every village in Tulunadu. I learnt that some times, the process of getting the result could be far more enriching and significant than the result itself.  Kambala was not just a race but was an activity that helps Tuluva to revisit his cultural heritage and relive his real identity.  Along with being a tradition of Tulu culture it serves as an apt representation of the spirit and philosophy of life of people who live here.

This realisation made me feel victorious, perhaps like a buffalo who had won the last race. I must add, I love the buffalos now, as much as I love their race.

by Joyer Noronha - Mangalore
Joyer Rudolf Noronha hails from Kinnigoli. He presently works as Manager ( Projects) for OMPL (ONGC Mangalore Petrochemical Complex)

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Comment on this article

  • Asha Pinto, from the heart

    Fri, Jul 08 2011

    You have rocked again my dear.

  • Anupama Rao, Mumbai

    Fri, Jul 08 2011

    My heart is touched by this atricle.As Lydia rightly said,buffalo(male) is a lovely animal.

  • Dinesh, mangalore

    Sat, Mar 14 2009

    Mr abhishek, mulky better u shake your head "Like most in the twin districts, I too had heard about Kambala quite early in my childhood." This is what it means please read the sentence twice there is a full stop in this sentence hope u will get what author mean to say. or please go to some tutorial to learn English again

  • Anita, Kinnigoli/USA

    Tue, Mar 03 2009

    Hello Joyer, Good to see this article and the pictures from Aikala Kambala. Liked the pace of your writing. It has a good mix of humor and reality. Keep writing you have a sharp observation and interesting way to express your thoughts. Looking forward to read more articles from you. Some of the interesting notes - Quote "The buffalos looked like unwilling groom of Hindi cinema, where as the assistants looked like dowry hungry parents." And wisdom- Quote "I realized that serenity of the place coupled with the freedom that it offered from the day to day rat race, were some priceless virtues that made Kambala so special to people."

  • joy fernandes.., italy..rome..

    Sat, Feb 28 2009

    Really I like kambala.. This beautiful article reminded me of my childhood memories

  • Noel F Lewis, Kinnigoli(mini dubai)

    Sat, Feb 28 2009

    Hey Joerama, please go on writing these kind of articles.. Let youngsters like me come to know more about our ancient Race

  • Sam, Kinnigoli

    Fri, Feb 27 2009

    Dear Joy, I heard a lot about Kambla before. But I have not seen kambla in my life. Your article was like a live commentary and now I am eager to see the beautifull kambla on my next vacation. Thanks for detailed article and superb photography. Please keep writing.

  • SD. Devanna, BELLARY / MRPL

    Thu, Feb 26 2009

    Mr.Naronha you are equally good as the narrator of the KAMBALA & kept the reader enthusiasm upbeat throughout the article . A perfect presentation with a very good sense of humour keeping in mind , the different reader personalities. I relaized you capability as a speaker when I had listned to your cricket commentary at MRPL School ground . Now you have proved that you are a good writer too... Best of luck for the next article . Expecting one more extra ordinary one in a short time .

  • ronald lewis felix, baikady/dubai

    Thu, Feb 26 2009

    Really I like kambala..  This beautiful article reminded me of my childhood memories

  • Shilpa, Surathkal

    Thu, Feb 26 2009

    My husband & your friend Girish K Rao asked me to read this article of yours,& I`m glad I did so.Good job & wonderful photos

  • Robert Lobo, Kinnigoli,Mangalore

    Thu, Feb 26 2009

    Simply Mind blowing.

  • Ravi Lobo, Kinnigoli/NJ

    Thu, Feb 26 2009

    Joy, Good article. Keep writing.

  • Ganesh, Mangalore

    Wed, Feb 25 2009

    You are really Mannina Maga!

  • Jerome, Mangalore

    Wed, Feb 25 2009

    Really good article, now people have time to read such things as most of them stopped reading business news etc due to recession.

  • girish k rao, mangalore

    Wed, Feb 25 2009

    Mr Noronha... articulation of the entire event is realy appreciable...having known your ability, I am not at all surprised with your good work.....eagerly looking forward to reading many more articles like this.

  • Ssayed Rahmatullah, M'lore/Bahrain

    Tue, Feb 24 2009

    6 PACKS. forget kambla. luk at the last picture. This is what we call the original six packs. waaaavvvv. I am impressed.

  • Ganesh, Mangalore

    Tue, Feb 24 2009

    Can see six packs on the chaser's belly.I dont think he uses modern gyms etc to build it.Traditional tulunadu food and regular physical job makes perfect body.

  • Ganesh Bhat, Mangalore

    Wed, Feb 25 2009

    Nice article,nice picture collections,thanks Mr.Noronha.

  • sunil monteiro, balkunje/mumbai

    Wed, Feb 25 2009

    one word...SUPERB

  • Prakash Harischandra, Mangalore /Tampa

    Wed, Feb 25 2009

    Excellent article .Helps many other get a greater vision of our own culture from getting thrown apart.Stopping playing dirty politics and appreciate ones sincere efforts in reproducing a good part of an heritage which all of you belong irrepective of who you are. All of us have skeletons in our cupboards.

  • Aldrin,

    Tue, Feb 24 2009

    I have not seen Kanbla in my life... But now I am tempted to see it.....

  • prakash, mangalore/dubai

    Wed, Feb 25 2009

    MR.JOYER NORONHA THIS IS FANTASTIC PRESENTATION OF KAMBALA OF OUR TULUNAD.YOU ARE REALLY A SON OF OUR PRECIOUS SOIL.I AM PROUD OF YOU.

  • Vinod Wilfred Tauro, MADANTHYAR,DUBAI

    Wed, Feb 25 2009

    Dear Joyer It is a nice article, I am also a Kambala Fan, nice snaps and good writing...I never miss Kambala in Mangalore...

  • M.Bhat, Mumbai

    Tue, Feb 24 2009

    This reply is to both Mr.Nadeem dubai and Mr.Thilak Shetty, Kondana, Mlr / Dubai I do agree with you both that animals do feel pain and hurt when whipped and slaughtered. One kill animal for food and other hurt and whip it for sake of enjoyment and pleasure.

    However I donot agree with you both when one justifies cruelty by saying they are fed and looked after well throughout the year, hence little bit cruelty is okay and other one raises animal rights issue and is silent on slaughter of animals in abboitors but against crulety. So vegetarianism is the best medicine for all our ailments.

  • Sudarshan V.R., Mangalore, Dubai

    Tue, Feb 24 2009

    Writer has poured his heart to bring out the real significance of Kambala in an effective way. Your narration is very good and catchy. We commend your job of explaining this artform better than those of us who have spent all our life there. Thanks for fabulous explanation.

  • Manoj Shetty, Karnad Dubai

    Tue, Feb 24 2009

    Hatsoff to Mr Noronha for his wonderful narration. Snaps too are beautiful to say the least. Wev all should ignore some fascist elements who seem to be everywhere these days.

  • Tressy D'Souza, Kinnigoli/Dubai

    Tue, Feb 24 2009

    Dear brother in law, you always make get together and go out to see events when I am not there. Whatever, I would say superb article.Keep it up.I guess, whoever, read the article felt as if they were present there and enjoyed the whole event along with their sweet memories.

  • Manoj, Karnaad, Dubai

    Tue, Feb 24 2009

    Mr Abishek Mulky, there seems to be something wrong with your grammar. You have got it wrong because of your poor English. Were you busy doing moral policing during school days.

  • Thilak Shetty, Kondana, Mlr / Dubai

    Tue, Feb 24 2009

    Nadeem, can you feel the pain of animals which are killed in slaughter house ? In this case farmers are forcing these animals to run only few days in a year, rest of the year they are getting kings' treatment.

  • abhishek, mulky

    Tue, Feb 24 2009

    " Like most in the..." this is how you started.Only because you have never seen a kambala,dont apply to all. All tulunadu people have seen kambala & yakshagana except a few who have lived all along in pubs & discos & now feel enlightened.

  • Nadeem, Dubai

    Tue, Feb 24 2009

    Well am not here to be for spoilsport  I too enjoy the game but dont ya guys think this against animal rights the way they beat and apply salt on wounds.  Well I can feel thier pain. A ban should be imposed on these kind of  games where animals have been treated badly.

  • Manoj Ferns, mangalore

    Tue, Feb 24 2009

    S.R.K. are you  there?

  • Bhaskar R Poojary, Mangalore/Dubai

    Tue, Feb 24 2009

    Good presentation by Mr. Noronha about Kambla.this article brings out the memorable days in mangalore.nice pictures.keep it up.

  • Babita, surtakal/dubai

    Tue, Feb 24 2009

    Hey Joy, good article I too really miss Kambala thanks for reviving all the memories again. - your cousin Babita.

  • Arif Shabu, Uchila

    Tue, Feb 24 2009

    Salman khan, Amir khan and Sharuk khan are dead infront of this guy.  Good work out keep it up

  • Vasu Kotian, Dubai

    Tue, Feb 24 2009

    This is called the Six packs...made earning for daily bread....

  • Nelson, m'lore

    Mon, Feb 23 2009

    That's the perfect natural six packs I ever seen.

  • Prashant Poojary, Mumbai - Dubai

    Tue, Feb 24 2009

    The article brings out the memorable days in manglore nice Pictures & nice Article

  • rodney, Taccode

    Mon, Feb 23 2009

    Nice article and stunning pictures. It was nice to rad your article and obviously good to see the buffalo's n stuff. The article brings out the memorable days spent with my frens in the moodbidri kambala.

  • Lydia Lobo, Kadri

    Mon, Feb 23 2009

    Thank you Joyer, for this beautiful article, it brought back sweet memories of my childhood. A Buffallo is a very loving animal. We as kids hung to their horns, had a ride on them and a lot of fun especially when they are taken for a wash to the lake. I was also picked up by horns by one of them and thrown down the little mountain that we take them to graze. I still carry a scar on my temple of that throw. Yet, if I happen to meet that very beast, I would fondly give him a big hug. Unique joy of being with the animals raised by us.

  • Theo D'Silva, Kadri,Mangalroe/Toronto, Canada

    Tue, Feb 24 2009

    Dear Joyer, I really liked the way described the Kambala. You have the gift of writing. Keep it up. You have the talent to get the readers to read and read your article and that is the escense of writing. Thanks, Theo.

  • Arun C.K, Mlore-Dxb

    Tue, Feb 24 2009

    Those six packs are natural. Shows hard work done in the fields through many years. Unfortunately Paddy culture in dying now vowing to labour and cost of operations.

  • Mohammed Nazir, Katipalla

    Tue, Feb 24 2009

    Very nice story and pictures.

  • Francis Saldanha, Mangalore, Dubai

    Tue, Feb 24 2009

    I really loved those six packs in the snaps and also your narration Mr. Noronha. Good presentation of Kambla.

  • Bolwar Basheer, Abu Dhabi

    Mon, Feb 23 2009

    Nice Pictures & nice Article..Graet...


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