CHRISTMAS 2025 is just round the corner, Churchianity and Commercialism all around the world is at its peak vying  to celebrate the Super Season with all in the fray, want it or not.  Every part of this historic season in every part of the world has its own glamour and charm even for those who really don't care for its deeper significance.  In Mangalore over three to four centuries it has evolved into a ritual and religious hype of its own. The Christian ethos is well known for its own glaring hue and colour stretching well after NEW YEAR. The hustle and bustle is unmistakable, overseas visitors to their roots are strange. Take a look at one of the oldest monuments of Christianity in the City - St Paul's Church, Mangalore. 

 

 

Historic St Paul's (CSI - Church of South India) church - dating back to 1843,  slumbering on the city's  south-west end of 'big maidan' (open space that was the base for football and cricket),  now known as 'Nehru Maidan,'.  It was always surrounded by dense pleasant green cover. Now, after 180 plus years in 2025, the smart city woes have laid it very exposed and many see it but only a few know it.  Those who care and use this historic church have  made efforts to enhance its special character and maintain its green aesthetic surroundings as best as they can, in spite of the bustling dusty surroundings.   

Near State Bank, opposite the Police HQ and market with heavy traffic, the two faced clock that still gives the time is often noticed. This church, which is one of the oldest Protestant original churches in Kanara, is steeped in history and rarely pondered upon. The fact that it was dedicated and opened in 1843 AD, a heritage value forgotten now. Old photographs depict a cannon being fired in front of the church at mid-day. It is noteworthy that while other CSI churches here conduct prayer services in Kannada or Tulu; St Paul's has the privilege to do so in English, which allows worshipers in the city from other parts of the country to participate better and feel comfortable. An interesting facet of St Paul’s Church is its clock tower – which contains a clock with two dials, facing east and south. The clock was fabricated and assembled in the Mangalore workshop of the Basel Mission, under supervision of German missionaries, perhaps the oldest such curio of its kind visible. Year long 175 years celebrations were held in 2017 - 2018.
 
The Historicity: The history of this St Paul's church is of interest. Mangalore an ancient port even in the 8th century according to historians,  in the 10th century the famous descendants of Bangaraja built a temple at the spot it now exists, designated to the Goddess "Mangaladevi" at the convergence of  two rivers Nethravathi and Phalguni. Gradually this town known as Kudla, came to be called 'Mangalapuram' 'Mangaluru' and 'Mangalore'. It became a place of culture,education and more. The first Europeans, the Portuguese came as traders and were later followed by French and British. The Europeans in keeping with the circumstances entered into political postures. Mangalore changed hands and between 1768 and 1799 the main parties were the British/East India Company and the Mysore muslim rulers Hyder Ali and his son Tipu Sultan. After the 'Seringapatam'  (now Srirangapatna) war of 1799 where Tipu Sultan was killed.  Wellesly recommended to the Crown,Thomas Munro (later 'Sir') to be the first Collector of Canara and British rule was established till independence of August 15, 1947.  

So, in 1799, after the fall of Tippu Sultan in the fourth Anglo –Mysore War, Mangalore, once again came under the British crown and was annexed into Madras Presidency.  Mangalore went on to become a strategically important port for the East India Company, a small garrison unit arrived to keep the peace and  law in this region of  Canara and to secure the border hilly passes into the Mysore Princely State.  After the Coorg rebellion of 1837, when Mangalore was attacked, the fortification of Mangalore resulted in a need for the Church to meet the spiritual and moral needs of the British soldiers and officers of the crown. Later, Mangalore ceased to be a military station. It became the centre of district administration and headquarters of industrial and commercial communities of Europeans and Anglo-Indians. They enjoyed the services of the church erected in 1843. In 1897, extensive repairs were made to the church.

In 1841, Rev. R W Whitford, the garrison Chaplain applied to the Government of Madras to  construct a Church in Mangalore, near the Fort St Antony the seat Govt,  this was accepted and approved.  Rev Alfred Fennell succeeded Rev Whitford in 1842 and the church building was completed. The church building was completed in 1842, and consecrated by Rev. George Spencer, Church of England, Bishop of Madras, on January 5, 1843.  It is interesting to note that the church was built using prison labour.  The original church was constructed at a cost of Rs.5,128 and since the budget amount was not enough, its seating capacity was reduced to 100, against 120 originally planned.    In 1971 it was transferred to the Karnataka Southern Diocese and thus continues its forward march.

"When St Paul’s Church celebrated its 150 years in 1993, it initiated a "Rise up and Build" fund for the expansion of the church. Raising Rs 4 lac, two side wings were added to the church, doubling its original seating capacity. In 2003 a community hall, at the rear of the church was inaugurated by the then Bishop, C L Furtado,  now lives on Mercara Hill, in Bendur.   This building was donated by Manorama Joshua and Maj S Joshua (Rtd). The congregation served by the St Paul’s Church has been increasing over the years. The families under it now number about 120. The sleepy compound of the church, marked by a well tended garden patch comes alive on Sundays and special occasions. 

 

The first 'Mission' church  was located at Bundar/Neereshwallya built in 1834 by the early members of Basel Mission, the early pioneers of this Christian group.  The Basel Mission contributed much to local languages....three Basel missionaries namely, Samuel Hebich,  John Lehner, Christian Griener, Moegling and a few others  landed in Calicut (now Kozhikode),  Kerala, on August 21, 1834; where a cathedral with beautiful architecture to match this one can be seen. They reached their  destination Bundar,  Mangalore on Oct 30, 1834, by sea.  It is noteworthy that their exclusive contribution to printing and the press here has been pioneering. In 1851, a printer from Basel came with Kannda fonts/types for the press in Mangalore. Some of the famous works that came out of this press are ever revered and are the benchmark ; Kittels Kannada-English Dictionary, Zieglers English- Kannada dictionary, and also Malayalam, Tulu dictionaries among others. One landmark is the first Kannada newspaper of M'lore - 'Mangalooru Samachara' on July 1, 1843. 

Mangaluru is famous for many places of worship of many faiths; people from all over the world  visit for this reason. The elegant "Shanthi Cathedral" or "Shanthi Mahadevalaya" a monument of the Basel mission, situated majestically  on the tranquil Balmatta hill and built by the 'Basel Mission' in 1862 is without doubt a landmark. In Comparison,  Catholic Churches in the vicinity have been originally established decades earlier, but their present edifices now are around 100 years on an average. Like, Rosario Cathedral (1915)  Milagres church ( 1911), Bendur  church (1921) and many others; most of these visible edifices / structures have been rebuilt in the early 1900s. The Shanthi Cathedral was blessed in 1862, the original magnificent structure still stands as an attractive monument in modern Mangaluru. German Christian Missionaries, the BEM Educational Institutions, established in 1838 located in the heart of the Mangalore city familiarly known as “Mission High School Road”, have been rendering yeomen service to the public in the field of education, irrespective of caste, colour or religion. The schools spread to many small towns of Canara and also a hospital based in Udupi still flourishes.  On December 9, 2012, the Golden Jubilee - 150 years, was a land mark event that is recorded in the annals of the history of  Mangaluru. 
 
St Paul's Church Cemetery - A British heritage:  This cemetery that is replete with historic tombs, located  in the heart of the city of Mangalore on Telecom House Road; off Old Kent Road - at the approach to Central Railway station; is an extension / annexure of St Paul’s Church, is little known. The cemetery measures 1 acre 85 cents. St Paul's Church Committees are delegated with the privilege of maintaining the 218-year old Heritage Cemetery. The cemetery has more than 70 tombs of British nationals, and now of recent members too.  Prominent among them is the 20-foot-tall tomb of Brigadier-General John Carnac,the first person laid to rest in the cemetery on November 29, 1800. Brigadier-General Carnac was second  in command to Robert Clive at the Battle of Plassey.  Of the others are, the Hon Michael T Harris, son of the first Lord Harris of Mysore and Srirangapatanam who died in Mangalore when he was the district collector and magistrate, is dated 1824.  Also buried are members of the families of Neale, Ewing, Babington and Noble who are mentioned in the history of the Madras presidency.

The historic Cemetery was formally handed over by a Central Government official on July 24, 1948 to the St Paul’s Church Committee . Earlier in 1947 a British  Officer of the PWD, handed over the records and keys of  the cemetery, to J.N.A. Hobbs Esq, the then Secretary of the Pastorate Committee of St Pauls’ Church, Mangalore (who was later knighted). The titular responsibility for the cemetery even at this point in time,  rests with the British High Commission under the British Association for Cemeteries in South Asia (BASCA). But the responsibility for the care and  maintenance is in the hands of the Pastorate Committee, Congregation and clergy of St Paul’s  Church, Mangalore. The Cemetery is being used for burial even to this day.  The St Paul’s Church Cemetery  is not just a historic Cemetery, but a Heritage site now. 

St Paul’s Church has served the city of Mangalore for more than 175 long years. Architecturally, it is a heritage site that carries forward the rich history of its founding members, similar churches in different sizes can be seen in many parts of India, a legacy of the British. Spiritually, it continues to serve the members of its congregation and by the grace of God will continue for a long  time to come.
 
May this Christmas season bring new grace to the Christian historicity in the City of Mangalore and folks here renew a duty to know and safeguard such history and monuments for those generations to come in the future.  May peace and Blessings be poured on this city of Mangaluru/Mangalore!