By John B Monteiro
Mangaluru, May 5: Sri Shata Chandikadwara, organised for the first time, by Bappanadu Sarvajanika Sri Ganeshotswa Samithi, Mulky, is drawing thousands of devotees to the Bappanadu temple complex, near Mulky, since April 30 and a concourse of 50,000 people is expected for the concluding rituals on May 5. Organisers expect 50,000-strong congregation and are preparing meals for 30,000. The rituals will start at 7.30 AM and will go on till 11.30 AM. One central point of the 6-day celebration is offering of gold-plated kavacha to the deity which is already in place as shown in the photo alongside.
This six-day function held under vast mantap to the east of the temple draws attention to Bappanadu Temple which has has bequeathed to Tulu Nadu a famous saying – “ Had you been to Bappanadu to beat dolu (drum)?” or “ Go and beat dolu at Bappanadu”. It implies that the person concerned is good for nothing and does useless work. Bappanadu’s drum is said to be quite oversized (See photo) and had been displayed at Karavali Utsav exhibition in Mangalore as one of the heritages of Tulu Nadu.
Beyond the drum, the temple itself has a history of about 800 years and a Hindu-Muslim harmony angle. Its main deity is Durga Parameshwari and the sub divinity is Ganesh. The story of the temple’s founding, how Durga reached the spot and how the temple came to be built with the help of a Muslim trader is embedded in legend and folklore with very involved episodes and also cited at the temple premises. It all started with the depredations of a demon by name Darigasura. He was destroyed by Durga Parameshwari who, along with her sisters, started on a northward journey from Kanyakumari.
When the party reached Mulky, they decided to rest in a grove of coconut trees. They saw a toddy tapper collecting toddy and requested him to give them seven tender coconuts. As he was shaving off the coconut husk, one coconut got opened which Bhagavati accepted and drank the water. Since he was a Shudra, others in the group ostracised her and proceeded on their northward journey, leaving her behind. She declared that the toddy tapper was her devotee and stayed put there. She transformed herself into a linga and embedded in Mulky between the Shambavi and Nandini rivers.
Enters Bappa Beary, a Muslim trader from Kerala. He was a God-fearing, religious person with tolerance and respect for all religions. He loaded his boat with provisions for sale in far off places along the coast in the north. As he was sailing in the Shambavi River near Mulky, the boat stopped in the middle of the river. As he looked out, he observed the surrounding river water had turned blood-red. With fear and worry, he did his namaz and went to sleep in the stalled boat. A luminescent Durgambike appeared in his dream and said: “There is only one God for the whole world. There are different names for him. You build a temple for me and your name will be remembered forever”. Bappa Beary accepted the demand.
He went to far off places, sold his wares and returned. Again Devi reminded him of her demand and his promise. He went to the local Jain ruler, Dugganna Samantha, and explained his dream. Samantha, with material help from Bappa Beary, constructed the temple. Bappa Beary also set up his home nearby. Thus, the place came to be known as Bappanadu.
Bappa Beary’s descendants lived in an ancient house about three furlongs from the temple, in a side street off the National Highway in Mulky town. Only the front portion of the heritage house is now remaining and hosts commercial establishments. Behind this about 7/8 individual residences have been built since the 1970s to accommodate Bappa’s descendants. One of them is Abdul Razak, 50 years, who runs a business of selling and servicing weighing machines through his shop in Kundapur. He happily agreed to be photographed (on May 4) with the main entrance to the heritage building which has stood the vagaries of nature for over five centuries. When the Bappanadu temple Devi is taken in ceremonial procession, as they did in April last to mark its annual feast, Bappa’s descendants are offered prasad on priority and they, in turn, offer fruits and flowers to the deity. This ritual is adhered to even to this day. Razak and his cousin receive the prasad in alternate years.
Bappanadu claimed to host the largest number of drums during the main festival of the temple. Delegations from 30+ surrounding villages came to the temple in procession and kept up the drumming at the temple site. But, since the last half a century, the number of drums has been declining because the drummers, belonging to the Koraga tribe, are either declining or are engaged in other activities.