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City by the sea
By Ravi Lobo - New Jersey

March 25, 2008

“It was the best of times, it was the worst of times, it was the age of wisdom, it was the age of foolishness…”
- A Tale of Two Cities (Charles Dickens)

I don’t live in Mumbai anymore; although I was there for a considerable amount of time. But the memories are still fresh and warm. I remember old days sometime and wonder whether those days will ever be back.

There is a saying among the local people: the person who survives Mumbai survives anywhere in the world. It may be bit exaggerated by the people who love the city so much but there is also a little bit of truth in that. Many people don’t survive the city, they go back to the places from where they have come from. Even I got dejected after a few days.  I stayed mainly for the reason - I had no where to go.

The Outsider

It took me sometime to adjust to the smaller houses, bigger crowd, faster life and the city that never sleeps.

“You are an outsider “chaiwala concluded at the tapri.
“How do you know?”
“By your accent “he said.
“Does that matter?” I was surprised.
“No I guess, everyone is an outsider here.“ I didn’t know whether it was literal or philosophical.

When I was a kid..

When I was a kid there was a school picnic whose sole purpose was to travel on a train. We went to Mangalore got on the train; and the teacher said – “The bogies of the train look similar; but they are not same. Only one has an engine. It pulls all the other dummy bogies, like a leader. I want every one of you to be a leader!”

“Ravi, are you a leader?” she asked me.

“If everyone becomes engine; who will become the dummy bogie?”. I asked her back.

She was not expecting this. She pondered for a moment. “I am sure you will!” finally she said.

And here I was in Mumbai day to day traveling in the train. I saw some people sitting on the roof; they were very close to the power line and probably very close to death. “Why would they do that?” I wondered.

“This is Mumbai my friend anything is possible here” fellow traveler said. That was my first time. Later I heard that line millions of times from various people.

A fine gentleman

One day while standing on the 5th platform at Andheri, I heard an announcement “The train coming on 5th platform will be redirected to platform number 3”

I was in a hurry; there was really no time for climbing the stairs and reaching platform 3. So I jumped on the tracks, and a fine gentleman with a suit from the other side of the track pulled me up.

“Thank you very much sir!” I said.
“Don’t you know it is against the law to cross the rails?” he asked me.
“I know, I am short of time, I need to attend an interview” I said.
“I am afraid you are going to be late for the interview” he told me.
“Why?”
“Even though you are crossing; you should not do it when the TC is on the platform!”
Then it dawned on me.
“Are you..?”
“Yes. I am “He took me to a small office on platform number 1.

“350 Rs fine with receipt. Or 50 Rs. and no receipt” he said.

“Are you a leader, Ravi?” My teacher’s voice ringed in my ear; got my receipt by paying 350 Rs.

Lady running on the platform

Some days later, I was standing near the door of a train about to leave the station – I saw a lady running, raising her sari, parallel to the train trying to get in. I tried to tell her, not to panic because there is a train every 3 minutes. But she seems to be reluctant to my advice and increased her speed.  I extended my hand and pulled her in exactly as Sha-Rukh-Khan pulled Kajol in DDLJ.

While I was holding her, I found she was surprisingly muscular. On close inspection I realized to my horror that she is not a lady, but an eunuch. 

He/She came surprisingly near me.  I could smell the breath.
“Kya re, Salmaan Khan!” held me at a place no one dared before.
The grip was becoming stronger.
“You are hurting me!” I said.
“Give me five rupees”
“How about one rupee?” I tried to negotiate.
“How about squeezing you more!” made me immobile with the counter offer.
“Please don’t make me sterile like you!” begged him or her or whatever.
I gave five rupees; he jumped out at the next station. 


Normal life

Standing by the door of the moving train I used to watch outside world. The moving houses, running AIDS awareness hoardings, people squatting on tracks for morning needs, torn posters of adult movies – it was a different world. It fascinated me.

One day while I was standing by the door, a man, hiding behind a pole hit me hard with a stick. I lost my bag.  Later I came to know that this is a NORMAL thing in Mumbai, which was not so normal from where I had come from.

There was nothing significant in the bag except for a relatively obscure book written by an unknown monk – “Love thy neighbor”. Later when I was roaming around FOUNTAIN I saw this book at many road side books sellers.  I didn’t buy it.

The great gambler

When my friend from Mangalore visited me, I took him to Juhu. We roamed for a while on the beach; noticed a curious crowd at one place. They were gambling. It was a primitive sort of gambling; players need to guess the Joker among the 3 cards. Who ever identifies the Joker wins 10 times the money he stakes.

This looked like an interesting game to me; where the chances of winning are always one third which is a high probability in any kind of gambling.

We closely monitored the game for some time. Interestingly, I could guess the Joker each time. “Only a moron could lose in this game”, I told my friend.

So we started playing the game, and like morons we lost 5000 Rs!  It was a big amount. My friend needed that money for a job agent. Finally I borrowed the amount from another friend. It took a long time to repay that amount. I could not borrow from mom, she would have killed me for that kind of money. In fact she would have killed me for lot less. Mom never came to know about this incident. (She will come to know now of course, after reading this article; almost a decade later. But she can’t kill me now, my wife won’t allow that! )

Years later I realized that every one among the crowd was a team, even the players!  The only outsiders were me and my friend.

Night life

Not all human actions are rational (remember we have evolved from monkeys). During one of these low moments of my life I went to a dance bar with friends. I thought we were late because it was closed from the front. But then we entered from the back door (which was NORMAL of course).

The environment inside was gloomy.  There was a stage in the center where few girls were dancing; they were not interested in dance. As a matter of fact they seemed as if they were not interested in life itself. Some of them were wearing garlands made of currency notes.

One fat guy sitting in the corner was throwing cash artistically at the dancing girls. “Why would someone do that?” I asked my friend.
“This is Mumbai my friend, anything is …. “my friend started.
“I know, I know “ I said. “Let’s get out of here”
“Probably you need something refined”. He concluded; so we went to a disc. The atmosphere here was different. The crowd was young; most of them were either software engineers or call center guys.

The atmosphere was more live. Every one was dancing and smoking. It was full of smoke. Almost like heaven. I saw a girl smoking.
“Every day 1200 people die because of smoking” I told her.
“I am not going to die today” she replied.

She was wearing a T-shirt with a picture of a person having thick mustache. The person in the picture really intimidated me. “Is that your grandpa?” I asked her.
“No. This is Friedrich Nietzsche moron!”
She was either an intelligent person or trying to look smarter. Anyway she succeeded in her efforts.

Then there were some people drinking from a thin glass tube I had last seen in my chemistry labs. “What is that?” I asked my friend.
“Tequila “ he said.
“How is it?”
“One word” he replied “Heaven!”
“Let me try that”
“Follow the 3 steps” he said “Lick the salt; drink tequila; taste lemon”
“Great” I said, tried tequila and till date I don’t know what happened next. Later when I felt little bit okay, my friend asked me “how was it?”
“One word” I said “Heaven!!”

Cripple at Churchgate

One day at Churchgate, I saw a cripple on a train that was about to start. Some good people offered him change. Most people didn’t offer him anything. This may be a bad day.

It was very difficult for the cripple to move around. He was literally crawling. He looked like a young man, may be my own age. What choices did we make that has resulted in these outcomes? – I wondered. I thanked God silently, felt sad for the cripple. Contrary to my character I took a 10 Rs note from my pocket.

And then suddenly train started moving. What would the cripple do now? Probably he may have to get down at the next station.  The incoming crowd at the next station would give him a tough time.

Then an incident happened that changed me for ever.

To my horror the cripple stood erect, almost my height, walked straight towards me as a perfectly normal person, looked straight in my eyes, winked, snatched the 10 RS note jumped out from the running train and vanished in the human crowd.

This is the second biggest shock I ever got! (The first one was the electrical shock I had got some time back trying to remove the insulator of a live wire with teeth.)

Before this incident deep inside me there was a person who believed in every fellow human being and universal brotherhood.  This incident killed that person.

Spirit of the city

In those days, no one was listening to Nusrat Fateh Ali Khan except Anu Malik who would promptly copy his songs. These copied songs would become super hits. Some time Anu Malik would copy a song twice! Then some upcoming artist would copy Anu Malik, and Anu Malik would threaten to sue this new artist for copying the already copied songs. Mithun was acting in every other B grade movie. I was sad for this 3 time national film award winner’s decline.

The days were bad. One time a political leader died in the hospital. His followers destroyed the whole hospital. Subsequently the followers promised the hospital authorities that they will rebuild the hospital free of cost with one condition that hospital would bring back the dead guy!!

This kind of reasoning made me crazy. I was slowly losing my mind.

“Where are you?” my aunt called on my cell.
“I am at Andheri station” I said.
“Come home straight; there was a bomb blast near Dadar” she said.

I took an auto and went home straight. Next day I was scared to board the train; to my surprise trains were running normal as if nothing had happened. Tiffin careers were there along with the beggars, office people, flower vendors, small time crooks, singing babas, TCs, news paper distributors - it was a regular crowd.  

And then I realized: No amount of bombing could kill the spirit of this city.


A new man

One time I was in a crowded train. The moment I said I will be getting down at Andheri,  four guys held me tight, made me immobile.  It was a Virar train. They didn’t allow me to get down at Andheri.

This is a kind of crowd management trick, not from the railways but from general public. I learned this later.Only people travelling long distance catch the Virar train, rest of us would take either Andheri or Borivali train. 

I got down at Borivali; and TC promptly caught me for not having ticket till Borivali. I told him I was not allowed to get down at Andheri.

“I hear this story every day;” he said  “Why, I heard this one today morning itself.” He was indifferent my pleadings.

“What now?” I asked him subsequently.
“350 Rs fine; and I will give you a receipt” he said.

Long time back when Gandhi was a kid, a British inspector gave a surprise visit to his school. He gave a dictation to the class. All the kids wrote the answer properly, except Gandhi who could not spell the word – “kettle” correctly. The school teacher hinted him to copy from the neighboring student. But Gandhi would not do it. Later this incident influenced him a lot to define his character.

I don’t know why I am telling this story, but I wonder sometime - Are we all that great?

“Listen my friend” I told the TC “you can keep this 20 Rs, and…and..” words were not coming out.
“..and what?” he asked me curiously.
“..and I don’t need a receipt!” I finally said.
He gave me a long look; pocketed the money with a remarkable speed. “Now, aren’t you a smart boy? Why did you lie to me earlier?”

I didn’t say anything.

“Run along boy, before I catch you for not having ticket!” he winked at me and disappeared as quickly as he had appeared.

I waited for sometime. Something unusual to happen - but nothing happened. I heard the announcement for the next train. The train was full. There was a curious looking boy on the roof, he gave an inquisitive look.

“Can you give me a hand?” - I offered my hand.


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Comments on this article
A.D'Cunha Shenoy, MangaluruSaturday, March 29, 2008

"Amchi Mumbai". "Bum.. Bum.. Bum... Bumbai meri hai". These words aptly fit in. Mumbai the place to love, the place to hate, a place to runaway from, a place to run to. Whatever one wants to describe, for me Mumbai is the place to be. Someone might ask why. The answer is, it is full of life and not bored cities like Paris, London and Rome. When one wakes up every morning the life begins, the commute begins, the entertainment begins and certainly misery someone might call it, begins.

Nevertheless, its a city where from a Pauper to a filthy rich corodepathi can live simultaneously. From Dhabbawalas to Pav valaas, food is plenty. Yes, some places its dirty, yes, in some places it is a paradise. whatever one can find, once you are used to it you will never leave this miracle place. Thats the beauty and charm of this place. From Shanties to palaces, from coolies to film stars, from lords to commonners, all can live and have a piece of the pie of this place. '

While I have seen many places of this earth, my heart and sole belongs to this place, and of course after Mangaluru is my own habitat. Mr. Ravi you have caught it right here in this article the beauty and charm and all the in between of this great city of many breadwinners. Amchi Mumbai.

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Fr. Louis Pinto, Vaslane, MumbaiSaturday, March 29, 2008

Congrats Ravi Lobo. You have really expressed the feeling of staying in Mumbai well. I have been in Mumbai for over 40 years. Presently, I am the Parish Priest of St. Joseph's Church, Andheri. Really experienced most of it. But yet undoubtedly Mumbai is the place to be for the young. Although I am originally from Mangalore, having settled in Mumbai, the feeling has changed.

It is proud of its fast life and very helpful nature at times of need, things which one does not find at all in Mangalore. A person who comes to Mumbai for a job never goes back without finding it. More articles on Mumbai will definitely raise the feeling of 'Amchi Mumbai'. Jai Hind. I would like to meet you in person, Mr. Ravi..

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Gauri, Mangalore/AbudhabiThursday, March 27, 2008
It was wonderful reading your article as it took me down memory lane esp. not being allowed to get down at the station. But fortunately I did not get caught by the TC. Ladies compartment experience are worse than the general ones. But I guess one somehow falls in love with this happening city within a year of staying with all its drawbacks. I still do miss Mumbai a lot.
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Domenic, Mangalore BahrainThursday, March 27, 2008
Hay!Your took me back to Bombay, Pick pocket, saved from train,bus accidents all comon there, but free life enjoyment and surviving with less money, not at all possible any where in the world I hope, thanks for the free tour again to my Bombay/Mumbai, keep it up.
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John Lobo, Mallikette, CanadaThursday, March 27, 2008
Hi Ravi. Cool article. Really makes me think of the miserable life people lead in Mumbai. I still think that Mangalore is much better and much more peaceful. Our place has a much more friendly environment than Mumbai-The city of Dirt and Slums. Congrats Ravi. Write more articles praising Mangalore..
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Padmanabha Shenoy, Udupi /Dammam Saudi ArabiaWednesday, March 26, 2008
Something different from others writings. I normally dont read complete article but this made me to read till the end....Great job...keep it up Mr. Ravi.
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anil, attavar/dubaiWednesday, March 26, 2008
Good Article. I enjoyed it,keep it up sir.
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Linda Fernanades, Bangalore/DubaiWednesday, March 26, 2008
Good interesting article. nice to read.
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Naveen Mathias , Kinnigoli/DubaiWednesday, March 26, 2008
Excellent one Ravi, I am another frustrated guy after staying in Mumbai for almost one year. I lost my purse once while travelling on bus. After getting down i realised that in the crowd, few people had made me immobile for some time. Good Article. I enjoyed it.
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Euna Kamath, Mangalore/BangkokWednesday, March 26, 2008
Absolutely marvellous! Having been bred in Mumbai,I can identify myself with most parts of the article.Every time I visit Mumbai ,I have to make a journey by the local train it's like a pilgrimage.And did you not have "train friends","office friends","Bldg friends",etc,etc?
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Irene Rego, Bajpe/SydneyWednesday, March 26, 2008
Nice article. So funny but so true. It reminded me of my days in Mumbai between 1987 and 1995.
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John Weiner, Nicosia, CyprusWednesday, March 26, 2008
I have never seen Mumbai, for that matter India. But I believe these experiences can not be much different from any other major city. Being from country I had similar experiences first time in a major city. Ravi has captured the essence of Mumbai beautifully – remembered reading City of Joy. Good memoir…
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Valerian Aranha, Kinnigoli/ DubaiWednesday, March 26, 2008
Wonderful article Ravi. It reminds us about the life we spent in Amchi Mumbai. It is an unique experience to live in the fast life of Mumbai than the slow life of Mangalore. Real Life incidents narrated beautifully in your own style. Nice to read. Keep writing.
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